Trying to work out if it's the adapter, bad connection or failing HDMI cables. Much slower than above remotes or a keyboard.Ĭurrently have the adapter unplugged after having sound cutting out randomly. holding down left to scroll movies sends about 2 presses a second. Another big annoyance - would like to know if it's just my remote, but holding down button presses are slow.
#ADVANCED MCE REMOTE MAPPER OPEN EXE TV#
Also volume control can be passed to TV (or AVR if it's on). My Panasonic remote is IR so that's my biggest annoyance.ĬEC quite nice being able to turn off TV and AVR via HTPC. Can use the directional pad, enter, back and a few other keys.
#ADVANCED MCE REMOTE MAPPER OPEN EXE MANUAL#
Also has a better keyboard layout than the Mele F10.ĬEC adapter not bad, but I can't use the transport buttons (play, pause, fast forward etc) on my Panasonic TV remote - supposed to be able to activate them, but the codes in the manual just don't work. I'm hoping the IR works with my Panasonic TV. Rii mini i25A - I bought this cause it looks a little nicer than the Mele F10 design wise. Using the remote my wireless keyboard manages to stay in the draw for months. I don't use the keyboard at the back often but it's faster than using onscreen keyboards. Being able to use a mouse quickly and easy also very useful. Does work on two other TV's I've tested (LG and Samsung). Rechargeable battery lasts ages (quite a few months). Though for some reason doesn't work with my Panasonic TV and Pioneer receiver. Can learn IR commands from multiple remotes. Anyway seems like quite a pain to remap - but I'm open to suggestions. I had a quick look at EventGhost and couldn't remap the skip forward and back buttons. None of these remotes have fast forward / rewind buttons only skip forward back. Once you've had RF it's hard to go back to IR! (And a Xbox One controller and Harmony One I don't use.) I'm currently using Mele F10, have ordered Rii mini i25A, also have my TV remote with HDMI CEC adapter. Will take a look at the one's you linked. The problem is it's plastic and it wears down to perfect smoothness which makes the detection wonky. I found out that for the trackball issue you can just unscrew the casing, take it out and sand it just a tiny bit and it's like new after that. I've probably spent $300 on random trackball keyboards trying to find one I like, the one I linked I've gone through 5 of in the last 4-5 years. It would appear they don't make them, anymore, so if you want a multimedia keyboard, this one is also an option I switched to using this It has steel bearings. One big problem they have is the bearings for the trackball are plastic, and they wear down pretty quickly.
0 kommentar(er)
